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Q: What does a wig or hairpiece typically cost?
Synthetic wigs can be purchased for as little as $40 through mail order catalogs. Custom-made, human hair, hairpieces can cost as much as $5,000.
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Q: What kinds of hairpieces are available?
Hairpieces can be ready-made, semi-custom-made or custom-made.
Ready-made hairpieces are the most common. The cap generally comes in sizes petite to large to accommodate a wide range of head sizes. Typically a series of hooks and eyes at the back of the hairpiece, or Velcro on an adjustable band is used to provide a snug fit. The Peggy Knight Cool Solutions™ uses strips of stretch silicone that grip to the head.
Machine produced ready-made wigs with synthetic hair offer low cost, ease of care and fast delivery - often within 3-4 days, if in stock. Many styles are available and prices range from $40 to $300.
Hand-tied ready-made wigs provide a more natural looking scalp. They can be made of synthetic or human hair - The Peggy Knight Cool Solutions™ is made from the finest human hair available. Hand-tied ready-made wigs allow for individualized styling. They range in price from $400 to $2500.
Semi-custom shaped net base wigs are available through some manufacturers. Usually a client tries on a series of different cap sizes and shapes to find the fit right for her head. Both the circumference and the shape of the dome can vary. A mold of Saran wrap and tape is made directly on the client’s head. Semi-custom pieces offer a more secure fit than ready-made pieces, and can be made in 6-8 weeks. The hair is usually hand-tied onto a net base to create a natural look. They range in cost from $1,200 to $1,800. Some allow for fitting while the client still has hair and can be worn through hair loss and re-growth patterns common with alopecia areata or chemotherapy treatments.
Custom-made hairpieces like the Peggy Knight Signature Vacuum (link here to product page) are usually used by persons with permanent and total hair loss. A plaster mold is made of the client’s head and the base is formed from this mold. The precise fit creates what is called a suction or “vacuum” type fit. These hairpieces can be worn without adhesive and are the most secure and natural looking. They require 4-6 months to make and range in price from $2,000 to $4,000. Plaster molding of the head is done for other form-fitting custom hairpieces, which improve their comfort and security but do not provide a “vacuum” type fit.
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Q: How do hairpieces stay on the head?
A variety of attachment methods are available. Depending on your individual pattern of hair loss, personal life-style and desire for security, you can choose one or another.
Hair weaving or bonding (i.e., gluing or tying a hairpiece to existing hair) is generally not recommended as it can place a lot of strain on existing hair.
Full wigs can be attached to growth hair with mini-clips. The clips should be rotated periodically to avoid putting prolonged pressure on the same area. Attachment to a bare scalp generally requires double-sided tape. The new Peggy Knight Cool Solutions™ is a human hair, net based hairpiece that stays on the head without tape. Anti-slip silicone strips provide a secure, comfortable fit. Custom-made molded hairpieces like the Peggy Knight Signature Vacuum (link here to product page) form a vacuum seal with the bare scalp and don’t require tape or clips.
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Q: How many hairpieces do I need to live a normal, active life?
Regardless of the type of wig you choose, it is always a good idea to have a back-up hairpiece. With synthetic wigs, an unplanned exposure to sudden heat may cause frizzing that a professional will need to fix. While it’s being repaired, you will need an alternative hairpiece to wear. Though human hair wigs can last from 1 to 4 years, they require periodic repairs during their lifespan. Repairs may take up to ten weeks. Your back-up hairpiece should allow you to feel comfortable in any situation.
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Q: Can I expect my insurance company to pay for all or part of a wig?
Insurance coverage for wigs is generally unpredictable. Payment is usually obtained only on appeal after initial claim rejection. The insurance industry views wigs and hairpieces as cosmetic even though many states now exempt them from sales tax as a necessary prosthetic item when hair loss is caused by alopecia areata, chemotherapy or other medical causes. To have the best chance of receiving payment, your sales receipt must list your hairpiece as a “full cranial prosthesis” and it is helpful to have a prescription from your doctor. In some instances it may be necessary to include a letter indicating that the hairpiece was needed to maintain emotional well being. As difficult and sometimes humiliating as the process may be, insurance reimbursement is worth the battle. There are several hairpiece companies and women’s support group organizations that are actively fighting the battle for better insurance coverage. Check with the National Alopecia Areata Foundation (415-472-3780, www.naaf.org) for additional tips in filing a claim.
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Q: What type of hair is used?
Wigs and hairpieces are made from synthetic, processed human, or unprocessed human hair. Each type has advantages depending on your life-style and the hairstyle you desire.
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Q: What do I need to know about Synthetic hairpieces?
Synthetic wigs may be the best choice if you have a short hairstyle, limited budget or little capacity to provide home care and maintenance. Benefits include easy care, reasonable price, permanent color and quick availability.
On the negative side, wigs made from synthetic hair tend to be stiffer and less flowing than those made from human hair. The base is sometimes itchy or irritating to sensitive skin. The synthetic fiber cannot be highlighted or colored and constant rubbing on the collar of a blouse, or exposure to heat will cause it to frizz. Most synthetic wigs range in price from $40 to $800 depending on cap construction and method of attaching the fiber to the base.
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Q: What do I need to know about Human Hair hairpieces?
Human hair wigs are considered the best choice if you want a longer hair style and a look and feel that is very natural. These wigs flow and move like growth hair. They feel soft to the touch and on your neck, can be permed and colored, and generally last longer than synthetics.
The drawbacks are that they need care like growth hair and require that you have a flexible budget; they are generally more expensive.
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Q: What is the difference between processed and unprocessed human hair?
"Processed hair" has undergone one or more chemical processes in an attempt to change its outward appearance. Most processed hair used in the manufacturing of hairpieces is of Indian, Indonesian or Chinese origin, because of its availability and affordable cost. This hair is naturally black, coarse and straight and must be chemically processed in order to make it look like natural, unprocessed hair. Chemical processing typically involves lifting of color (bleach), depositing of new color (dye), permanent curling (perm), and finally, stripping the hair of its outside cuticle layer (decuticulized).
"Unprocessed Hair" (European-quality) is the finest quality hair available because it requires no chemical processing. This hair is gathered in ponytails which are blended and matched according to color, length, texture and curl pattern. It takes up to 12 unprocessed ponytails to manufacture one hairpiece!
Because of its quality, unprocessed hair is the most expensive. It also has a much longer life expectancy. This hair is carefully blended without disturbing the cuticle direction, resulting in tangle-free styling. Fewer repairs and chemical processes are needed because of the healthy hair shaft.
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Q: Can a mix of human and synthetic hair be used in the same hairpiece?
Some companies offer a blend of human hair and synthetic fiber. This can provide the advantages of both: some sway and movement and the natural feel of the human hair, along with the style keeping and easy care of the synthetic. It can also present problems in care and maintenance however because each type of hair requires different processing methods to keep it in style
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Q: What is the difference between machine-made and hand-made hairpieces?
Machine-made wigs are usually less expensive than hand-made pieces. In most styles the hair fibers are machine sewn onto a “weft” in a fixed pattern. The wefts are then assembled together on an open net base. Generally this type of construction is worn by persons who have some hair, as you can see through the wefts when the wind blows.
Hand-made methods involve hand knotting on a net base or hand inserting into a custom molded base. Hand construction methods usually provide a more random and natural appearance. Most hand knotting or implantation is done overseas as the process is tedious and very labor intensive. On some hairpieces, there are over 140,000 individual hair shafts that need to be inserted. There are a wide variety of price and appearance options. These are explained in the following section.
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Q: How are hand-implanted or hand-knotted pieces constructed?
For almost all wigs and hairpieces, hair is attached to the wig base with “ventilating needles.” Ventilating needles come in various sizes and have small hooks at the end designed to pull a specific number of hairs from the hair bundle and insert them into the base material. The needles with the smallest hooks will pull one hair shaft at a time. Larger hook versions can pull up to 8 hair shafts at a time. Single hair shaft knotting or implanting looks the most natural, and is also the most expensive.
Hand-Implantation on Molded Bases:
Hand-implantation is used on suction or “vacuum fit” hairpieces. Once the molded base is made, the hair is implanted into it one shaft at a time, or up to five shafts at a time. The single shaft method duplicates the pattern of growth hair and provides the most natural looking results. The multi-shaft implantation can be less expensive, but may be less natural looking, especially at the part line or crown. When hair is implanted, the angle of implantation varies over the surface of the base to duplicate that of growth hair on the scalp. Special treatments are often provided at the front hairline and the nape of the neck depending on the style of the hairpiece.
Hand-Tied Knotting Methods:
On net base hairpieces, the hair is tied onto the net with the use of the ventilating needle. The designated number of hairs are first picked up from the hair bundle then pushed through the net, knotted, then pulled back through the net again. Most net base hairpieces will knot more than one hair shaft at a time. Often the pattern in the front may be 2-5 shafts at a time while in the back it can be 5-8 shafts at a time.
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Q: What types of base materials are used in making net base hairpieces?
The best quality net base pieces will use a very fine net, sometimes called “micronet.” Fine net designs keep the hairs closer together and create a more natural appearance. Some net base designs come with a polyurethane liner that provides a surface for taping to areas of the head that may have no hair. The liner also helps provide a more natural looking scalp at the part line.
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Q: What types of base materials are used in vacuum fit hairpieces?
The vacuum fit or suction type hairpieces can be made of a variety of materials ranging from fiberglass (hard) to silicone (soft). Soft base pieces are generally lighter and more comfortable. The hard bases are more durable. All the vacuum type bases will be slightly warmer to wear than the net base wigs.
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Q: Can I wash and style a synthetic hairpiece?
Synthetic wigs usually require washing in cool water every 7-10 days. They can be left to dry on a towel overnight and are easily “fluffed” back to their original style. Hot water, hair dryers or curling irons should never be used on synthetic wigs.
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Q: Can I color a synthetic hair hairpiece?
Synthetic wigs cannot be colored or highlighted. They can be purchased in a wide variety of colors however, and the fiber will hold most of its color even with prolonged exposure to sun. Some custom-made synthetics can be ordered with several colors mixed throughout the hairpiece to provide a more natural appearance. Always consult your stylist about the condition of the hair before coloring.
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Q: Can I wash and style a human hair hairpiece?
Human hair wigs require shampooing and conditioning about every 7-10 days. They can be air dried overnight or dried with a hair dryer. Use low heat for best results. Use curling irons or rollers sparingly. If your human hair wig has been permed, you may treat it like permed growth hair.
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Q: Can I color a human hair hairpiece?
Human hair wigs can be colored and highlighted like growth hair. The drawback is that the color will fade with prolonged exposure to sun just like growth hair and will need to be recovered or highlighted. Coloring a human hair wig requires special training and should never be attempted at home. A trained stylist will always do a test strand and in some cases may try multiple tests to achieve the desired shade.
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Q: Can I perm a human hair hairpiece?
Perming a human hair hairpiece is very different from perming growth hair. It should never be attempted with home perm kits. A human hair wig will tend to hold the perm as it does not “grow out” like growth hair. Consult your stylist.
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Q: What can be done to make a natural looking hairline?
One of the most critical areas in wig design is the front hairline. Many wigs don’t have a very natural looking one, and this forces the client to wear styles with bangs or with the hair pulled more forward into the face. This in turn is one of the signs that someone is wearing a wig.
We suggest you consider styles with wispy bangs or hair styled slightly off the face. You should always ask about any styling limitations before you purchase your hairpiece. Some wigs come with a special feature where hairs are hand-tied and “under-vented” on the edge to provide the most natural appearance. Creative styling techniques can also be used to give the appearance of a wispy natural looking bang line.
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Q: How do I care for a wig?
All wigs require some home care. The ones that look and feel the most natural generally need the most care to keep them looking that way. Every hairpiece should come with recommended care instructions that includes any special shampooing procedures and recommended hair care products. Always follow these instructions carefully or ask your stylist for specific instructions. With both human hair and synthetic wigs the overall appearance and life span will be greatly affected by the type of home care you provide.
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Q: In addition to home care, does a wig require other care?
Almost all wigs will need repairs periodically to keep them looking fresh and natural. A human hair wig will begin to lose hair at the part line and crown through the normal pressure of combing and brushing. On many styles, hair can be added in these areas to maintain a natural appearance.
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